Restringing a Strat
- Beauford33
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Restringing a Strat
I got my 50th anniversary strat for christmas/birthday, but it is my first electric. I just broke the high e string, and now Im just looking at the bridge going "wtf?". Yea, ignorance from the acoustic guy. How do you restring the guitar?
-BK
- TaylorGuy110
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- Beauford33
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- You_Enjoy_Myself
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- TaylorGuy110
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It is best to change one string at a time while the old strings remain on the axe in standard tuning. This causes the least amount of stress on the neck and whammy setup and keeps new string tension constantly increasing until it reaches correct pitch. Make every effort to avoid sharp bends or kinks in the new string, and keep the windings around the tuner post neat and smoothly butted up against each other in one layer; no criss crossing of the winding, or tuning stability will suffer.
Light gauge strings (9's or smaller) are thin and pliable enough to slip on the tuning post and come loose, even if you have a few wraps around the post. You may want to "lock" the strings to prevent slippage. To lock a string, take the free end of the string and loop it around the tuning post backward 1/2 wrap, slip it under the string (where the string enters the hole), loop it back over the string at this point. This creates a "noose" for the string at the post and prevents slipping. This should only be necessary for the plain (unwound) strings. Before bending the string to lock, make sure there is enough free slack in the string to allow at least three wraps around the post when tuned to pitch.
Here's how I determine the amount of free slack: After inserting the string in the tuner hole, pull the string taut from the middle of the neck while allowing the string to slip back through the post (maintain resistance with your hand...at the tuner). The ball end should be in its correct nesting. Pull the string (at mid-neck) up to a point three inches to six inches above the fretboard (string apex). Heavy strings will require about four to seven inches of slack; thin strings will require four inches or less slack. This should be enough slack to lay three wraps or more around the tuning post. Now apply the noose or simply bend the free end firmly against the post at the hole exit (bend it backwards). You may want to put another bend in the free end an inch or so beyond the tuner so that it (free end, sharp steel) sticks straight up in the air (erect). This prevents the free end from hanging up on the other strings and tuners as it spins around (as you tune up). Don't be surprised if blood appears during any of these routines. I try to keep the string taut during the entire procedure; it takes a little finesse but greatly enhances the pleasure of changing a string.
While still keeping the string taut, extend your index finger upon the top side of the string (pointing the finger toward the tuners) and keeping the string cradled in your other three fingers. The index finger can easily apply pressure upon the string. You can also twist the wrist a bit and increase or decrease the tautness of the string. Now, with finger still resting atop the string, slide your hand down the string to the point that has your fingertip just between the nut and the tuner (maintaining tension). Your index finger is now in position to "feed" the string onto the lower part of the tuning post. Feeding the string from an angle lower than the nut will result in even, clean wraps. Once again, the string tension is maintained the entire time you are turning the tuning key. Vary tension and slack by twisting the wrist. The fingers cradling the string can be wiggled as necessary to prevent any kinks at this position (apex).
Once the string is tight enough to rest in the nut, clip the excess off at the tuning post with wire cutters. Leave about one eighth of an inch or more sticking out at the end and press it cleanly into a safe spot against the post. Use caution. Now tune the string to pitch.
Locking tuners solve the problem of slippage by actually clamping the string to the tuning post. With locking tuners you only need one wrap or less around the post (but at least one half a wrap) when tuned to pitch.
Locking tremolo systems have their own unique quirks. Some locking trem systems require the removal of the string's ball end (snip it off with dykes). The plain end of the string is clamped at the bridge by a small vise and secured by tightening a screw. *There may not be enough distance between the locking nut and the tuner to easily slip the low e string through the hole in the tuner. Needle nosed pliers are the tool to use.
this help?
Light gauge strings (9's or smaller) are thin and pliable enough to slip on the tuning post and come loose, even if you have a few wraps around the post. You may want to "lock" the strings to prevent slippage. To lock a string, take the free end of the string and loop it around the tuning post backward 1/2 wrap, slip it under the string (where the string enters the hole), loop it back over the string at this point. This creates a "noose" for the string at the post and prevents slipping. This should only be necessary for the plain (unwound) strings. Before bending the string to lock, make sure there is enough free slack in the string to allow at least three wraps around the post when tuned to pitch.
Here's how I determine the amount of free slack: After inserting the string in the tuner hole, pull the string taut from the middle of the neck while allowing the string to slip back through the post (maintain resistance with your hand...at the tuner). The ball end should be in its correct nesting. Pull the string (at mid-neck) up to a point three inches to six inches above the fretboard (string apex). Heavy strings will require about four to seven inches of slack; thin strings will require four inches or less slack. This should be enough slack to lay three wraps or more around the tuning post. Now apply the noose or simply bend the free end firmly against the post at the hole exit (bend it backwards). You may want to put another bend in the free end an inch or so beyond the tuner so that it (free end, sharp steel) sticks straight up in the air (erect). This prevents the free end from hanging up on the other strings and tuners as it spins around (as you tune up). Don't be surprised if blood appears during any of these routines. I try to keep the string taut during the entire procedure; it takes a little finesse but greatly enhances the pleasure of changing a string.
While still keeping the string taut, extend your index finger upon the top side of the string (pointing the finger toward the tuners) and keeping the string cradled in your other three fingers. The index finger can easily apply pressure upon the string. You can also twist the wrist a bit and increase or decrease the tautness of the string. Now, with finger still resting atop the string, slide your hand down the string to the point that has your fingertip just between the nut and the tuner (maintaining tension). Your index finger is now in position to "feed" the string onto the lower part of the tuning post. Feeding the string from an angle lower than the nut will result in even, clean wraps. Once again, the string tension is maintained the entire time you are turning the tuning key. Vary tension and slack by twisting the wrist. The fingers cradling the string can be wiggled as necessary to prevent any kinks at this position (apex).
Once the string is tight enough to rest in the nut, clip the excess off at the tuning post with wire cutters. Leave about one eighth of an inch or more sticking out at the end and press it cleanly into a safe spot against the post. Use caution. Now tune the string to pitch.
Locking tuners solve the problem of slippage by actually clamping the string to the tuning post. With locking tuners you only need one wrap or less around the post (but at least one half a wrap) when tuned to pitch.
Locking tremolo systems have their own unique quirks. Some locking trem systems require the removal of the string's ball end (snip it off with dykes). The plain end of the string is clamped at the bridge by a small vise and secured by tightening a screw. *There may not be enough distance between the locking nut and the tuner to easily slip the low e string through the hole in the tuner. Needle nosed pliers are the tool to use.
this help?
- Beauford33
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seriously, if you need that much explanation on how to change a string go hang yourself.
Also, i'm becoming sick and tired of how egotistical everyone here is about their playing yet 90% of the people have questions about how to change strings. WTF!??????
BK, push the string through the corresponding hole in the back, it will come out through the bridge, pull it. the ring will catch on the inside of the bridge.
Also, i'm becoming sick and tired of how egotistical everyone here is about their playing yet 90% of the people have questions about how to change strings. WTF!??????
BK, push the string through the corresponding hole in the back, it will come out through the bridge, pull it. the ring will catch on the inside of the bridge.
- Beauford33
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I KNEW IT!!!checkii wrote:seriously, if you need that much explanation on how to change a string go hang yourself.
Also, i'm becoming sick and tired of how egotistical everyone here is about their playing yet 90% of the people have questions about how to change strings. WTF!??????
BK, push the string through the corresponding hole in the back, it will come out through the bridge, pull it. the ring will catch on the inside of the bridge.
-BK
Beauford33 wrote:I KNEW IT!!!checkii wrote:seriously, if you need that much explanation on how to change a string go hang yourself.
Also, i'm becoming sick and tired of how egotistical everyone here is about their playing yet 90% of the people have questions about how to change strings. WTF!??????
BK, push the string through the corresponding hole in the back, it will come out through the bridge, pull it. the ring will catch on the inside of the bridge.

and whatever you do, DO NOT fuck with the weird hexagon screw thingies that kinda control the individual action of each string. When I was 16 and got my strat I fucked witht htem all and it's still fucked up.
- TaylorGuy110
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You_Enjoy_Myself wrote:I hope you choke to death on a wad of cum.TaylorGuy110 wrote:ha that sucks i know exactly what you need to do. but i remember you calling me a dumbass in the other thread! GOOD LUCK!
BigSpeen3436 wrote:Please tell me you're joking?TaylorGuy110 wrote:ha that sucks i know exactly what you need to do. but i remember you calling me a dumbass in the other thread! GOOD LUCK!
yall don't have to hate im a slow typer lol ---good luck BK hope it helped and you got it!
- Beauford33
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yea, but what heppned when I borke my string, there is about a half inch left right where it comes out of the bridge, so I stratgically working to push it back through the hols so I can get it out.checkii wrote:Beauford33 wrote:I KNEW IT!!!checkii wrote:seriously, if you need that much explanation on how to change a string go hang yourself.
Also, i'm becoming sick and tired of how egotistical everyone here is about their playing yet 90% of the people have questions about how to change strings. WTF!??????
BK, push the string through the corresponding hole in the back, it will come out through the bridge, pull it. the ring will catch on the inside of the bridge.
and whatever you do, DO NOT fuck with the weird hexagon screw thingies that kinda control the individual action of each string. When I was 16 and got my strat I fucked witht htem all and it's still fucked up.
-BK
so you're saying that the movable rectangle little piece is in the way when you are trying to push the string through?Beauford33 wrote:yea, but what heppned when I borke my string, there is about a half inch left right where it comes out of the bridge, so I stratgically working to push it back through the hols so I can get it out.checkii wrote:Beauford33 wrote:I KNEW IT!!!checkii wrote:seriously, if you need that much explanation on how to change a string go hang yourself.
Also, i'm becoming sick and tired of how egotistical everyone here is about their playing yet 90% of the people have questions about how to change strings. WTF!??????
BK, push the string through the corresponding hole in the back, it will come out through the bridge, pull it. the ring will catch on the inside of the bridge.
and whatever you do, DO NOT fuck with the weird hexagon screw thingies that kinda control the individual action of each string. When I was 16 and got my strat I fucked witht htem all and it's still fucked up.
like taylor said, the string cant get bent. just push softly as hyou hold that little rectangular piece in place.
- Beauford33
- DMBTabs.com Authority
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- Joined: Sun Jun 29, 2003 11:08 pm
- Random movie quote to make you seem hip and "with it": A little bit of column A and a little bit of column B...
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yea, the little piece gets through the hole, then in the back that circular tube-things get pushed back. what am I suppose to do then?checkii wrote:so you're saying that the movable rectangle little piece is in the way when you are trying to push the string through?Beauford33 wrote:yea, but what heppned when I borke my string, there is about a half inch left right where it comes out of the bridge, so I stratgically working to push it back through the hols so I can get it out.checkii wrote:Beauford33 wrote:I KNEW IT!!!checkii wrote:seriously, if you need that much explanation on how to change a string go hang yourself.
Also, i'm becoming sick and tired of how egotistical everyone here is about their playing yet 90% of the people have questions about how to change strings. WTF!??????
BK, push the string through the corresponding hole in the back, it will come out through the bridge, pull it. the ring will catch on the inside of the bridge.
and whatever you do, DO NOT fuck with the weird hexagon screw thingies that kinda control the individual action of each string. When I was 16 and got my strat I fucked witht htem all and it's still fucked up.
like taylor said, the string cant get bent. just push softly as hyou hold that little rectangular piece in place.
edit: JK, I relaized these are Bullet strings and that is ball part. Sweet, I got it. Score one more for me
-BK
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