How to lower strings?
- MrMister612
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You only need to adjust the truss rod if the angle of the neck is wrong. Most of the time the best thing to do is to take out the saddle (just use some plyers (sp?)) and sand it down with some wire gauze or something very abrasive. Sanding the saddle 1/16" will lower the action at the 12th fret by 1/32", sanding 1/8" will lower the action by 1/16", etc. (you usually measure the action at the 12th fret)
Of course if the neck angle is out of whack, then adjusting your truss rod is the thing to do first. One thing to keep in mind is to adjust very slowly and let the guitar sit for a few minutes after each turn to adjust itself out.
Here is some good info on truss rods and adjustment:
http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/Musicia ... tradj.html
Of course if the neck angle is out of whack, then adjusting your truss rod is the thing to do first. One thing to keep in mind is to adjust very slowly and let the guitar sit for a few minutes after each turn to adjust itself out.
Here is some good info on truss rods and adjustment:
http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/Musicia ... tradj.html

- thejoe
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did you read any of what i wrote?bassman462 wrote:even thought that is how they do it, depending on the guitar depends on which way they'll lower it, my brother just did a few small turns with the truss rod, nothing happened with my neck and the strings are so much lower now.crash_in_to_me wrote:THANK YOUMachtimus wrote:sand down the saddle
adjusting the truss rod indirectly adjusts the action by changing the curve of the neck
it is not made for lowering action
alex, i may be wrong, but i think the whole piece where the strings go is the bridge, and teh plastic/bone thing is the bridge
~joe
i have 15 matty boom points, and frankly, i dont give a shit
i have 15 matty boom points, and frankly, i dont give a shit
- MrMister612
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so then the quality of your saddle is very important ya?MrMister612 wrote:The small white piece that fits inside the bridge slot is called a saddle. The strings vibrate the saddle, which vibrates the bridge and the bridgeplate (located inside the guitar, underneath the bridge), which vibrates the entire top, which makes the guitar sound.
The saddle is very important, if the bottom of the saddle doesn't sit flush with the bridge you'll probably notice a string or two that sounds dead a lot sooner than the others and a decrease in volume. Also different materials will also tend to yield or highlight different aspects of the guitars tone.checkii wrote:so then the quality of your saddle is very important ya?MrMister612 wrote:The small white piece that fits inside the bridge slot is called a saddle. The strings vibrate the saddle, which vibrates the bridge and the bridgeplate (located inside the guitar, underneath the bridge), which vibrates the entire top, which makes the guitar sound.
Honestly, whether or not FWI>Bone is obviously a matter of opinion. I have FWI saddles in both my Larri's and in one of them I have FWI bridge pins too. I was definately able to hear a difference between the TUSQ it came with and the FWI.KahnTheRevelator wrote:hmm Ive never heard of thathcole wrote:Fossilized Walrus Ivory>BoneKahnTheRevelator wrote:bone saddle = goodness
It's considerably more expensive than bone, my saddles were around 50$ each and the bridge pins set me back $115. Not only do they improve tone but they look awesome too. I got my FWI stuff from http://www.guitarsaddles.com/.
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